Kyle Berg

Day 2, 3/13/07
Niko and his parents were trying to figure out what to do and finally opted to take a very long day trip to El Chaltén. Since I had planned to go there anyway, I decided I might as well jump into the trekking and get up there. Looking back, it´s obvious God put me on that bus and answered my prayers better than I could have imagined. Had I drawn up my ideal travel companions, I could not have picked two better guys than the two I found.

As we pulled into El Chaltén at the end of a 4 hour trip, I finally decided to chat with the two American I had overheard planning their trekking route. Outside the bus I asked them if I could tag along and if they ended up leaving me in the dust, that would be fine. They said sure and we headed for a small restaurant for omelets before getting started. Since they were keen on taking some of the paths less traveled, we check at the park headquarters about obtaining a pass for a special route. But, that route required special harnesses to cross a river and a few people had died attempting to do so. Needless to say, I was glad they declined that option, thus allowing me to continue on with them. While beginning the trail, we exchanged get-to-know-you questions.

Mike was 29 and a professional photographer from Salt Lake City. John was 51 and along as both friend and model. They were combining fun and work by trekking and taking pictures of the outdoor gear they had with them courtesy of the companies with whom Mike had photo contracts. Even more amazing than traveling with a photographer was that Mike has loved the outdoors since he was 15 and has worked in camps, been an outdoor education instructor, and is just an all-around outdoor nut. Add to that his love of teaching and I had found the right match. Along the way, Mike showed me how to properly adjust my pack, load my pack better, pitch a tent properly, tie my laces so the boots don´t gradually loosen, as well as countless other tips. I couldn’t have hired a better guide.

We trekked about 4 hours, stopping at various places to snap pics or take a food break. As we went along, I had a feeling of disbelief as I gawked at the beautiful scenery and kept saying in my head, “I´m actually doing this!” My shoulders were really sore and my legs tired, but I kept pace with Mike & John just fine and we arrived at camp about 5 pm. We set up the tents, cooked our respective meals, and got everything ready. Afterwards, I joined them on the ridge looking up at Cerro Torre. I felt like I was in Lord of the Rings as we looked at the stunning beauty of the granite face in the light of sunset as well as the lake in front of the tower.

Day 3, 3/14/07
We got an alpine start (really early) and walked the short distance to the lake in front of Cerro Torre. Mike wanted to catch the “sweet light” just after sunrise and I couldn’t turn down the chance to take in such a beautiful sight. I sat along the ridge and enjoyed the absolute silence that had been so foreign to me in Buenos Aires during the previous 5 months. As the orange glow crept over the mountains and hit the peaks of Cerro Torre, I again looked on in disbelief at the majesty I was beholding. Mike and John continued shooting and I headed back to wash my pants and socks and dry out my sleeping bag. (I had spilled water in the tent and didn’t sleep well because was freezing because the bottom fourth of my sleeping back was soaked). After they got back, we took it easy, enjoying the sight and writing in our journals.

We finally hauled our butts away from the camp just before 3. We backtracked for part of the trail and then headed up a steep climb that got us all sweating under the brilliant sunshine. After arriving at the flatter section of trail, we came across a group of 6 or 7 woodpeckers absolutely going to town on some dead, rotting trees. They were like machines! As John and I ate trail snacks, it was fun to watch Mike in his element photographing the birds for at least 15 minutes. (I think it´s great to watch anyone who is doing what they love and is good at it). After this generous rest, we pushed on came to pair of lakes called “Lago Madre” and “Lago Hija”. Because we had started late, we were almost completely alone on this section of trail. We were tempted to camp along the smooth, black stoned beach but kept going because it wasn’t an official campsite. It was after this that we had our first glimpse of the Fitz Roy masif. Again, it was hard to believe I was actually seeing such majesty firsthand. As it was getting later, we pushed on and arrived at camp around 7 and quickly set up our tents before dark.

I went down to the creek to refill my water and ended up talking with John for about 15 minutes as he filtered water. It was difficult to believe his predicament as he told me of the situation. About a month ago, he and his wife of 20 years adopted a child. However, this was a unique circumstance. His wife is from Thailand and their newly adopted child was her grandson. His father had died and the mother didn’t feel capable of taking care of him. Having never wanted children, John found himself a father for the first time. Because he felt there was no way he could say no, he never even expressed his apprehensions with his wife! Very hard to imagine. It was obvious he was overwhelmed by it all and saw very little upside to the situation. I didn’t say much let him do all the talking as he put forth his worries. Being significantly younger and lacking any paternal experience, that was about all I could do.

Day 4, 3/15/07
This was definitely my favorite day of the entire trip. We again got an alpine start and left camp under headlamp. (A headlamp is considered basic trekking gear and turned out to be a very good purchase that I almost avoided. Vanesa made fun of me for buying it, but I´m glad I did!). It was difficult to find the trail under darkness because we were crossing a rock bed rather than a dug-out dirt trail. Mike´s expertise definitely shined through that morning. He helped kept redirecting us as we could hear the roar of a creek in front of us. When it came time to cross the shallow creek, he deftly instructed us on how to do so safely. Next, we had to slide across a small ledge with a moderate drop off. While the drop was not huge, as Mike said, it was definitely a “no mistake zone.” Had I been alone, it would have definitely been a “screw that idea” moment. But Mike´s style of teaching inspired confidence. I only had to make a couple of small, careful steps and then grab onto his hand. It wasn´t that difficult in hindsight, but sure felt like it in the moment. I was definitely fight mental images of myself plummeting onto the rocks below.

We were handsomely rewarded for our work as we scrambled across boulders and worked our way up the stream towards Laguna Sucia. It turned out the path had been difficult because we took a much different trail than our intended trail leading to Tres Lagos. But we all agreed it was better this way. There was no one else in the valley as we snapped pictures, ate, and sat in amazement looking up at Fitz Roy. We also listened to the thunderstorm-like rumblings of the glacier below the massif.

Next, we looked up the steep rocks to our right and decided that was the next part of our journey. Again, had I been alone, there is no way I would ever have thought about climbing up the scree (rock field). The intimidation would have been too much. But Mike carefully led the way, continually instructing us on how to proceed safely. This was child´s play for him, but a challenge for John and me. It took about an hour, but upon reaching the top, we had a great feeling of satisfaction. We were also rewarded with another magnificent view of Fitz Roy. There was another turquoise lake in front with another lovely angle of the massif. The view down to Laguna Sucia where we had been previously was absolutely amazing. What had appeared to be a clear lake now shined with a turquoise color I´ve never seen on a lake. It was yet another surreal, Lord of the Rings moment.

We sat around for an hour or two and enjoyed the warmth of the day. Mike talked quite a bit about his girlfriend Heather and asked me about Vanesa. It was during this time that it was obvious we were all really getting along well. I had not only avoided being a drag on the group, but was actually an asset. Both Mike and John enjoyed having a third person to diversify the trip. Knowing they were continuing on to Torres del Paine (as was I), I asked them if they would mind if I accompanied them on the hike there as well. I was relieved when they said they´d be happy if I joined them.

On the way back to camp, we were met again by Eva, a 34 year old woman from Spain that we had met earlier. She was sick of traveling with her companion Ignacio and wanted to join us. John and I both loved having someone with whom to practice Spanish and talked for about 30 minutes before splitting up. We made the long, long, descent down the trail we were supposed to have taken that morning. Upon reaching camp, we were all exhausted, hungry, and a bit sunburned. What we thought would be a 3 hour trip ended up taking all day. Yet none of us would have wanted anything different.

Day 5, 3/16/07
After 3 somewhat rare, clear and calm days in Patagonia, the weather we had been expecting rolled in for our final day. Overcast with strong winds, it reminded us how fortunate we had been. I walked the majority of the trail by myself in order to reach town early and buy a bus ticket back to El Calafate. These 3 hours of solitude also reminded me of how fortunate I was to be accompanied by 2 great guys. Trekking alone would be alright once in a while, but traveling with others is soooooo much better! I finally got down to El Chaltén and walked around, fighting the dust from the winds as I looked for the bus terminal. Afterwards, I sat down to a fairly bad hamburger but enjoyed it anyway after 3 days of nuts, pasta, granola, and dried fruit.

After arriving at the hostel, we washed clothes and took a shower for the first time in 4 days. Man, did I stink! Then it was on to “La Vaca Atada” to reward ourselves with a meal fit for kings. We dined on the fat of Argentina with lomo, pumpkin & potato puré, salad, and Malbec wine. A very nice reward for 3 1/2 days of hard work.