Perito Moreno Glacier
The bus picked me up around 8 a.m. and then we switched to a larger bus and were on our way to see the main attraction of the area, the Perito Moreno glacier. The 70 kilometers passed quickly and, upon entering the park, a ranger boarded the bus to charge foreigners 40 pesos and Argentines 12 pesos to enter the park. I elected to do the boat ride for 38 pesos and this was first on the agenda. We boarded a very modern, well equipped vessel and spent the next hour trolling in front of the face of the glacier. The views were beautiful and, although directly in front of us, it was difficult to comprehend the enormity of the ice.
For our remaining 3 hours we were free to walk the observation platforms and enjoy the sights and sounds. The popularity of Perito Moreno is due to its movement. Most glaciers move only inches a year, but this one moves 6 to 9 feet a day, causing awesome displays of ice crashing to the water. The glacier made a couple nice showings, with only 1 truly great display that felt and sounded like the boom of a huge thunderclap. Unfortunately, the place had become so touristy that I found it difficult to enjoy. I wish they had issued duct tape at the entrance so people would have had to shut up and just sit back and enjoy the scenery. Isn’t that why we were there? All the talking drove me nuts. Admittedly, I wasn’t in the best mood either as the apartment situation continued to weigh on me and I was beginning to feel a loneliness and futility in traveling. I was in front of one of the world’s great sights, but somewhat uninterested.
Back in town, I reserved a bus ticket to El Chalten, used the Internet, and sat on a bench to think and pray. I was not okay and it was becoming quite obvious. I began to contemplate whether I would continue traveling or make plans to go home. This was a nice opportunity, but I couldn’t continue with the tears and the sadness in moments where I should have felt joy and freedom.
Before returning to the hostel, I went to the grocery store to buy food for the next hike. Only after paying did I discover that El Calafate had banned grocery bags. The girl put a few of the smaller items in what was no more than a large sandwich bag while I put my bottle of water and a package of spaghetti in a pants pocket and stacked the other items in my arms. As I walked to the hostel, I overheard an Argentine mom comment to her son upon seeing me, “No te dan bolsas en el supermercado,” to which the boy replied, “Obvio.” Interesting how what we’re used to shapes our outlook.
Thankfully I slept well that night and didn’t notice whatever noise was around me or the bed that was 6 inches too short.
